Estonian Design
A very strong and unique young generation is emerging on the Estonian design landscape, enhancing the design scene with varied approaches and the utilisation of fresh opportunities.
The collections of Estonian designer Reet Aus consist of clothes made from organic fibres and used clothing and textilesThe works of our young designers echo Estonia’s rich and conflicted recent history, which sets them apart from their contemporaries in the West. Their works encompass hope and a practical desire to better the world, and certainty and belief in a great ideal. They are also very diverse, but each of them has made a breakthrough as a result of choosing one clear path and sticking with it.
In general, there are two different directions developing. One of them is abandoning the factors associated with mass production. Many different elements play a role in this—mass production means both overproduction and burdening the environment, as well as the usage of extremely similar technologies, business models and designs. The other direction is based in intelligent and technology is concealed and its usage made incredibly simple.
ASTERISK*
Young Estonian graphic designers Laura Pappa and Elisabth Klement have chosen their secondary path and created the unique mobile bookstore ASTERISK*, which distributes and sells works that have been created through the projects of young graphic designers. Modern technology allows for books to be published and distributed in small numbers to a definite audience. Therefore every book finds a reader and there are no unsold books left to gather dust in a storage room.
What makes ASTERISK* interesting is its mobile existence—it is open in different locations, offering a pleasant environment for gathering and exchanging ideas. Today one can purchase the works of over 40 designers, artists and musicians there. ASTERISK* has represented the book designs of young Estonians at many events abroad, for example the international Small Press Fair for small publishers in Zurich, as a result of which the books they distribute can now be found in Berlin and New York, distributed by co-operation partners.
High-quality handicrafts
Kaspar Paas' handmade shoes
In 2007 Kaspar Paas was awarded the Estonian Young Designer Award SÄSI, but much to everyone’s surprise it was not for the area he had studied, namely graphic design. Instead, the jury was captivated by his explorations in the area of shoe design. Kaspar made his first pair of shoes for himself when he was serving in the military, and they were more flip-flops or sandals than shoes. His first real pair of shoes was made from black suede and smooth leather. Kaspar never complains about a lack of inspiration—the ideas come easily. “Mostly I get ideas from the books I read—not books about the history of shoes, but from stories, and also from folk tales and architecture,” he said, revealing the sources of his inspiration. Both comfort and interesting design are paramount in his handmade shoes. While most handmade shoes are more classical in appearance, Kaspar’s creative works most certainly are not. Today the demand for Kaspar’s shoes is high, and he has satisfied customers who order from him again and like to be updated on all the newest developments.
Environmentally friendly fashion
Speaking of the abandonment of mass production, Estonia’s prime example over the last few years has been Reet Aus with her well thought-out green clothing creation concept, as well as the very stylish collections she creates based on this concept. An orientation towards consumption has brought along many ecological problems, and the clothing industry has been one of the primary catalysts behind this consumer madness. Although design is one part of the fast fashion process, it is a strategic decision whether to step as an employee onto the racing carousel or to choose a wholesome and environmentally responsible preparation process. Reet Aus has decided to provide people with the opportunity to wear elegant clothing that has not poisoned its surroundings through waste or poisonous production processes, with the additional knowledge that the workers are fairly compensated. At the beginning of her creative journey, Reet became very closely acquainted with the fashion industry, and learning in detail about the entire system led Reet to the understanding that she no longer wanted to do her work following such principles. She creates to meet a demand and does not want to create new demands. However, she is now happy in everything she does, and this mood can be felt in her clothing. Reet doesn’t try to copy the fashion that’s already on the market, but from the very beginning has focused on bringing her own ideas to life and sticking to her principles. It’s not easy to start from square one—no investors, no wider understanding in society of green fashion. But today Reet, who has always stayed true to her values, has presented her collections in Paris, London and New York.
The other path: Intelligent design
Example: DIGITAL GRANDMA. Idea: Merike Rehepapp, Estonian Academy of Art, product design. The product gauges the temperature and colour change in a child’s mouth and gives a preliminary diagnosis of the degree of illness.
At a time when artificial intelligence through various digital technologies is creeping deeper into our everyday lives with exceptional speed, the young people here are not standing aside simply watching it all go by. The Estonian Academy of Art’s product and textile design students in co-operation with students of the Estonian IT College researched changes in everyday life related to the increase in technology and “intelligent” materials. One problem with digitalised products is their complexity of use, as there are always superfluous buttons or functions that are incomprehensible or unnecessary for the user. The students focused on finding easily understood and logical solutions for everyday items.
Ruth-Helene Melioranski,
Estonian Design Centre
More information:
Design Festival "Design Night at Tallinn"
- 1
- 2
